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Article #72: Diamond Color: Shoppers Buying Guide

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Diamonds can be found in every color of reduces its value with higher levels of
the rainbow from clear, colorless (white) fluorescence reducing the value the
to black as coal. Some colors like blue, greatest.
red, and green are extremely rare and There are some processes, like High
very valuable. Brown is the most common Pressure/High Temperature (HPHT) or
color of diamond with about 80% of irradiation, which can alter the color of
diamonds used for industrial purposes a diamond. With certain types of brown
like drill bits and saw blades. For most diamonds, the HPHT process can produce
diamond shoppers, their goal is to find a Colorless or Near Colorless color. With
diamond as white (colorless) as their HPHT, other types of brown diamonds can
budget will allow. be converted to fancy colors like
Most diamonds suitable for gem use have yellowish-green, greenish-yellow, and
trace elements of nitrogen that causes even shades of pink or blue. Irradiation
some level of yellow tint. The diamond can result in a variety of fancy colors,
industry uses a color grading system even though they are often visibly
developed by the Gemological Institute of different shades than natural colored
America (GIA) that ranges from D diamonds.
(completely colorless) to Z (fancy yellow Yellow is the most common and affordable
color). Each letter grade corresponds to of the colored gem diamonds. There are
a small range of color and the color four color-grades of yellow diamonds with
grade of a diamond is determined by enough saturation to be rated Fancy
comparing it to a set of master stones Yellow; Fancy Light Yellow, Fancy Yellow,
whose color grade has been determined by Fancy Intense Yellow and Fancy Vivid
a grading laboratory like the GIA. Yellow. Each deeper shade brings a higher
The top three color-grades D, E and F are price.
considered Colorless. Color-grades G, H, What do these color grades, fluorescence,
I, and J are known as the Near Colorless and color treatments mean to the diamond
and color grades K, L and M are labeled shopper? There are many color grades
Faint Yellow. It is important to have between the top D color and J, which is
the color grade designated by one of the the bottom of the Near Colorless range,
top diamond grading laboratories such as with the price of a D being about double
the GIA (Gemological Institute of that of J color. Most of the difference
America) or AGS (American Gem Society). in price is at the lower color grades
Color grades on other documentation can where there is also the most visible
be exaggerated and not accurate relative difference to the eye. The price
to industry standards. increase from a J to I can be about 20%
The bigger the diamond, the more obvious while from an E to D is closer to 2%.
its color will be, just as a carafe of Diamond shoppers need to examine diamonds
wine shows more color than a glassful. with their own eyes so they can determine
Some shapes of diamonds show more color what color they will be happy with
than others do. Shapes like the princess relative to the price.
cut are relatively bottom heavy and have Most shoppers find that for well cut
more diamond material to look through. round diamonds, I color provides a nice,
Individuals see shades of yellow white color and a good value. Fancy
differently and some shoppers prefer the shaped diamonds tend not to be as
warm look of the Near Colorless range brightly faceted as the round brilliant
rather than the cold, whiteness of the cut so H color is an excellent choice for
Colorless grades. value and beauty. However, some shoppers
Another factor that influences diamond will prefer and can afford higher colors
color is fluorescence. About a fourth of and other shoppers will choose lower
diamonds have a characteristic that when colors based on what they find appealing
exposed to ultraviolet light, they glow a to their eye and their budget.
color, usually blue. The fluorescence is Avoid diamonds with high levels of
no longer visible once the light source fluorescence or any kind of color
is removed. The intensity of the enhancement unless you specifically want
fluorescence can vary from Faint, which that, have been properly advised, and are
is barely visible to Very Strong, which paying the lower corresponding price.
is easily visible in a brightly lighted Beware of jewelry stores who stock larger
room. A little blue fluorescence can number of diamonds with fluorescence or
sometimes make Near Colorless diamonds will not show you the GIA grading report
appear even whiter than their true color. before you purchase. A merchant who is
Some very strong fluorescent diamonds hiding these factors from you is
appear milky or oily in appearance and certainly not someone you want to trust
thus not as clear. The presence of with your important diamond purchase.
fluorescence in a diamond generally






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