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The Evolution of the Old School Tie

It's well documented that in 1880, the flag of black, bright, orange-red, and
rowing club at Oxford University's Exeter gold, symbolizing "out of darkness,
College, invented the first designer silk through fire, into light." Blazers, caps,
ties. After an emotional win over their and ties were eventually created in these
rivals, they celebrated by removing their colours.
ribbon hat bands from their boater hats It took another one hundred and twenty
and tying them, four-in-hand around their years before the tie saw any significant
necks. When they ordered a set of ties, change. In the 1920's a pioneering Paris
with the colours from their hatbands, fashion designer Jean Patou invented the
they had accidentally created the modern designer silk ties. He made silk ties
school tie. Schools, clubs, and athletic from women's clothing material. Targeted
ties appeared in abundance. Some schools towards women purchasers, his expensive
had different ties for various grades, ties were highly successful. In fact in
levels of achievement, and for graduates. America three out of four ties are bought
Thanks to historians and their method of buy women.
accurate documentation all the original Jesse Langsdorf an American tailor
college colours are still available from discovered that by cutting the tie on the
archived samples and replicate ties can bias of the cloth, the tie would be much
be made to order. more resilient and long- wearing. Cut
The four in hand knot used to tie their slightly off bias, the tie would pull
hat ribbons, which later became one of off-centre and fall crookedly, but if cut
the most popular ways to tie a tie has at exactly 45 degrees, the aprons of the
its own unique origin. Coachman who lead tie would drape elegantly, straight down
a team of two horses en route would take from the knot. He also constructed his
the four reins, two for each horse, and ties using three different pieces of silk
tie them in particular fashion across (the blade, the gusset and the under end)
their hand , thus four reins in hand, or, sewn together. He patented his idea and
four in hand. Later the knot and the sold it to the world.
phrase the coachman used were adapted to Throughout the ages the striped tie has
neckwear. Two unrelated occurrences made remained a favourite style of men who
contribution to a style that survives in don't want to step outside a conventional
tact to this day. And interestingly both framework. Didn't some one once say
working class and upper class made equal "style is constant, fashion comes and
contribution, the coachman's phrase and goes"?
the university student boating hat band. So maybe the next time you knot your
Let's not leave Cambridge University out favourite designer silk ties four in hand
of the race; they also played a part in around your neck, you'll appreciate its
establishing an everlasting style, albeit colourful history. A word of warning,
forty five years after the first Oxford when tieing the knot, don't' think too
school tie. A Cricket Club, founded by a hard about the coachman pulling tight on
group of Cambridge University students in the reins, 'four in hand', you might
1845 is believed to have created the choke yourself.
first sporting colours. They designed a




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