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Article #52: Jewlery Style From Greek To Roman

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The Ancient Greeks were aficionados of amethyst, cornelian, garnet, rock crystal
jewelry, wearing simple to complex and chalcedony during Hellenic rule.
jewelry often complemented with effigies Etruscan jewelry, highly influenced by
of the Greek Gods Eros, Nike, Artemis, Greek culture, produced a large amount of
Isis and Aphrodite. Mycenae, the ancient intricate and ornate jewelry styles that
Grecian city ruled by King Agamemnon, was further influenced the Romans. The
the center for jewelry production in the Etruscans developed granulation (where
2nd millennium B.C. The Mycenaeans the surface of gold was soldered with
created jewelry of beads in the shape of tiny grains of gold to create a delicate
animals and shells, gold, amethyst, pattern) dated to the 7th century BC. By
emeralds, pearls, agate and other the end of the Etruscan Period, as they
semi-precious stones in the evolution of were absorbed by the Roman Empire in the
their jewelry production from 1,400 BC- 3rd century BC, the ornate designs were
300 BC. replaced by more austere qualities and
The Greeks created the cameo, produced by filigree (fine wire work with silver or
using an agate stone striated with pink, gold) was utilized. The Phoenicians
cream or brown also called Indian contributed colorful beads, inlay and
Sardonyx. As jewelry design and enameling. Rings of this period included
techniques became more complex, they a scarab or single set gemstones in an
developed a laurel wreath to be worn as a oval formation set in an engraved bezel.
crown of honor by scholars and heroes, As the Romans came to power the
sacred laurel leaves represented Apollo, craftsmanship of jewelry included many
the god of prophecy and intellect. natural resources found in the vast
Pendant earrings bedecked with Nike, Eros regions of the Mediterranean and European
or dove figurines became popular fashion continents. Romans invented the brooch
of the times. Pendants in the shape of which was used primarily for holding
Amphorae (the classic two-handled vase robes together. Gold continued to figure
shape) ornamented with enamel or prominently and hemispheres constructed
gemstones, hung by a rosette and capped into bracelets, earrings and necklaces
with the crown of Isis. Spherical or wide came into fashion. Bronze, pearls, bone,
chains of gold were worn as necklaces emerald and glass beads were used,
with hanging calyxes or fruit and clasps complementing the gold settings. Although
of animal heads or dolphins. The Greeks early Roman jewelry style borrowed from
were fond of wearing gold wreaths as established Greek and Etruscan design,
ornamental headdresses, elaborately new motifs such as the Heracles knot (two
decorated with flowers, acorns, foliage loops intertwined) with an apotropaic
or images of Eros and Nike. Greek gold figurine for averting evil spirits or bad
rings were set with gemstones or luck was introduced. In 330BC, hoop
sealstones (containing an engraving used earrings became fashionable with finial
for seals). elements of animal heads, figure of Eros,
After the fall of Greece by Alexander the maenads and negroes. Cameo portraits on
Great's viscious conquest, the rings and pendants and coiled gold
Hellenistic age begins, dating 330-27BC. snake-shaped bracelets made an appearance
Jewelry of this time was influenced by at this time. Upper class women of Roman
the Far East and Egypt, initiating new times wore extensive amounts of jewelry
fashions, tastes and styles not only in and men were expected to adorn themselves
jewelry design but overall aesthetics of with a minimum of one ring, made of gold
life. Gold became the dominating metal or carved stone including a seal stone
accompanied by gemstones such as for wax-sealing important documents.






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