| Throughout history man has used almost anything | | | | jewellery was romantic and nationalistic. |
| for jewellery & personal adornment from | | | | Although jewellery had been made by multiple |
| animals teeth, shells, dried berries, flowers & | | | | methods of production for centuries, mid Victorian |
| grasses in prehistoric times, to precious metals | | | | mass production meant that standards were |
| & gemstones in eras from ancient Egypt | | | | lowered and Victorian women rebelled against this |
| onwards. | | | | lowering of quality. Many wore no jewellery at all, |
| Gold & silver have been valued for jewellery | | | | or bought from the artist craftsman jewelers |
| throughout history along with Lapis Lazuli which | | | | who emerged at much the same time. |
| was valued for its pure & vivid blue. | | | | To win back these demanding customers some |
| By the time of the Roman empire (around 2000 | | | | jewelers like Tiffany & Co began to make |
| years ago), the Romans were trading & | | | | fine jewellery of such high standard that they |
| using sapphires from Sri Lanka, and emeralds, | | | | soon opened shops in main cities of Europe. |
| garnets, amber and diamonds from Indian. While | | | | With the death of Queen Victoria's husband |
| the Northern provinces were less prolific providers | | | | Albert, there was a huge fashion for mourning |
| of gems, England provided Jet, a fossilized wood, | | | | jewellery. Jet from Northern England was set into |
| which was carved & valued throughout the | | | | mourning pieces. All types of material that were |
| empire. | | | | black were used and almost all included a lock of |
| The importation of gems & pearls from the | | | | the dead loved one's hair. |
| East was dominated by the Italians who sold the | | | | In the 1870's mourning jewellery was replaced by |
| finished jewellery throughout Europe. Flawless, | | | | the Arts and Crafts movement. It was a reaction |
| large white pearls were prized more than precious | | | | to the mass production of the industrial revolution |
| gemstones during this period. The finest of pearls | | | | and was led by William Morris and John Ruskin |
| came from Southern India and the Persian Gulf. | | | | who promoted simple designs based on floral, |
| By the Middle-ages, in answer to demand for | | | | primitive or Celtic forms worked as wallpapers, |
| these beautiful natural treasures, the Italians, | | | | furniture and jewellery. |
| particularly the Venetian Muranos, began making | | | | The polished stones used in Arts and Crafts |
| imitation glass gems and pearls that were very | | | | jewellery gave jewellery a simpler, hand made |
| good likenesses of the real jewels, and for the | | | | look and feel to items. Major players in this |
| first time jewellery started to become affordable | | | | movement were Liberty of London and Rene |
| to the upper classes rather than just the nobility. | | | | Mackintosh of Glasgow both of whose designs |
| By the 17th century, no self-respecting woman of | | | | remain famous today... |
| means would have been seen dead without her | | | | By 1900, Arts and Crafts was replaced by Art |
| jewellery. Earrings were worn day & night. | | | | Nouveau, a more ostentatious version started in |
| By day fake pearl earrings and paste earrings to | | | | France. |
| coordinate with clothing were the rage, while | | | | Art Nouveau jewellery follows curving organic lines |
| diamond jewellery was kept for evening. They | | | | of romantic and imaginary dreaminess. The |
| even started embroidering jewels into their | | | | Frenchman René Lalique was the master |
| clothes (a trend set by Queen Elizabeth I who | | | | goldsmith of the era of Art Nouveau producing |
| was famed for her peal encrusted gowns) | | | | exquisite one off pieces which are still highly |
| In the 1700's, in response to this huge demand | | | | valued today. |
| for pearls & jewellery, the Parisians invented | | | | In the 1900's pearls were fashionable again, but |
| a new range of clever fakes. Jaquin of Paris | | | | still very expensive. This led to the first |
| coated blown glass balls with varnish mixed with | | | | production of "cultured" pearls. Real pearls made |
| iridescent ground fish scales while the best paste | | | | by placing a small bead into an oyster shell. The |
| jewellery was produced by Georges Strass. | | | | bead coated itself with nacre (mother of pearl), |
| After 1760 the production of fake jewellery | | | | creating a pearl. This process was led by Kokichi |
| spread to London and to Birmingham where tools | | | | Mikimoto of Japan. |
| & techniques were developing with the | | | | The next big trend was costume jewellery. In the |
| Industrial revolution. At the same time Steel | | | | 1930's Designers Coco Chanel (1883-1971) and |
| began to be used for settings for marcasite and | | | | Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) encouraged clients to |
| jasperware cameos. | | | | use costume jewellery and to mix it with genuine |
| The 18th century also saw the increase in | | | | gem pieces they already owned. Both designers |
| popularity of the more affordable semi precious | | | | offered imagination and fun and both often |
| stones. | | | | sported fabulous fakes. |
| As Emperor of France Napoleon revived jewellery | | | | By the 1940s and 1950s American culture |
| and fashion in his new ostentatious court. The | | | | dominated Europe. Hollywood set the fashion. |
| members of the new French imperial family had | | | | People wanted to look like their screen idols. With |
| the former French royal family gems re-set in the | | | | metals rationed throughout the 1940's fine |
| latest neo-classical style. These new trends in | | | | jewellery production ground to a halt, and the |
| jewellery were copied in Europe and particularly | | | | costume jewellery which was flourishing in |
| England. | | | | America, became seen as a real alternative to |
| When Queen Victoria came to the throne in 1837 | | | | fine jewellery. |