| Exceptional handcrafted jewelry is designed and | | | | world silver producer -- yes! -- followed by Mexico. |
| handmade by talented jewelers and | | | | Regarding gold, we are the first in Latin America, |
| artisan-jewelers the world over. While many | | | | and the fifth in the world. About quality, we are |
| designers create entirely unique designs, others | | | | considered one of the best. Regarding gemstones, |
| are deeply influenced by their region's historic | | | | we have a special stone, the Andean Opal. There |
| cultural and traditional styles. | | | | is a lot of opal around the world, but Andean Opal |
| Jewelry expert Merlly Calisto works closely with | | | | is purely Peruvian. From this stone we have |
| hundreds of master artisan-designers in her | | | | Crisocola, which was used by Pre-Incas in their |
| homeland, Peru. There, she serves as regional | | | | jewelry. Other popular semiprecious stones are |
| director of Novica.com, a world arts website that | | | | Sodalite, Onyx, Obsidian, Jasper, Serpentine, |
| assists thousands of artisans worldwide and | | | | Angelite. |
| features each artist's biography and handcrafted | | | | CG: When you are considering representing new |
| collection online. | | | | handcrafted jewelry artisans, what do you look |
| In the following interview, Calisto discusses | | | | for, in their design style, materials, and quality? |
| handcrafted jewelry as an art form, and | | | | How do you determine those factors? |
| traditional styles and materials of handmade | | | | MC: What I look for first is the meaning of each |
| jewelry in Peru. Calisto explains what she looks | | | | design -- immediately I imagine someone wearing |
| for when seeking new jewelry designers and | | | | it. Who would be the customer? How does he or |
| collections, who she recommends, and how she | | | | she look when wearing this piece? Is it design for |
| became a jewelry expert. | | | | a market where the customer looks for |
| CG: Why does Novica specialize in handcrafted | | | | something different, to convey tradition, culture, |
| jewelry, instead of machine-made jewelry? What | | | | and soul? I usually look for some aspect of our |
| advantages does handmade jewelry provide over | | | | roots, whether the design is modern or traditional. |
| mass-produced designs? | | | | If it expresses Peru in any of its ways, it is of |
| MC: Handcrafted jewelry is more challenging. You | | | | initial interest to me. I find myself grateful when |
| can feel the artist's soul in it. For artisans, | | | | the materials are Peruvian, especially our silver, |
| handcrafted jewelry provides the chance to | | | | gold, and local stones. Then, of course it must be |
| explore your creativity, to give more of yourself | | | | carefully crafted and meticulously finished. |
| and to make it true, without requiring the artist to | | | | CG: Can you please name a handful of your |
| invest thousands to get his or her idea developed. | | | | favorite handmade jewelry designers? Please |
| With simple tools, basic raw materials, and | | | | describe why they are your favorites. |
| talented hands, artists can express their feelings | | | | MC: IIlaria is one of my favorites. She leans |
| and beliefs in this art form, and show off their | | | | toward the colonial style we discussed, and she |
| unique designs and their inherited culture. | | | | really designs for the customer, not for herself. |
| Machine-made jewelry, on the other hand, | | | | You can view her collection at Novica, to see |
| requires a significant investment in machines, | | | | what I mean. |
| employees, and many other related costs, while it | | | | Patricia Jara is another of my favorites, because |
| removes the creative essence from this art. | | | | most of her items are in the modern style that is |
| CG: What are the typical styles of handcrafted | | | | nonetheless always inspired by Pre-Inca cultures. |
| jewelry a collector will find in Peru today? | | | | Claudia Llaury merges tradition with her way of |
| MC: The typical styles for collectors of Peruvian | | | | expressing tradition, in a simple way, and she uses |
| jewelry include Pre-Inca, Traditional, Colonial, and | | | | always local materials, including high quality silver. |
| even Modern. We are recognized for our gold and | | | | Juan Contreras creates lovely designs, especially |
| silver mines, which our ancestors put to use with | | | | his Inca-style designs, such as his "Veil of the |
| considerable dedication. The most popular use was | | | | Incas" collection. Claudia Lira's quality is very high, |
| for the creation of exquisite, carefully handcrafted | | | | and her jewelry shows that Peruvian artists keep |
| jewelry. Our ancestors captured their beliefs in | | | | innovating. Anna Lia and Adrian feature a fusion of |
| their jewelry, and the symbols associated with | | | | ethnic elegance and Art Deco, although they do |
| those beliefs. You will popularly find Peruvian | | | | not always use local gemstones. I feel very proud |
| jewelry featuring royal birds, felines, the Sun God, | | | | to represent these and many other extraordinary |
| and so forth. Peru is the Land of the Sun. Our | | | | artisans and designers. They are each showcased |
| Colonial jewelry, despite of being the result of the | | | | individually within our Novica Handcrafted Jewelry |
| Conquest of the Americas, shows what our | | | | division. |
| ancestors began to create after they learned an | | | | CG: What led to your experience in the |
| entirely new culture. So our Colonial jewelry | | | | handcrafted jewelry field? Did you begin as a |
| merges our ancestor's unique talents with new | | | | jewelry artist yourself? |
| beginnings, and typically features a heavier | | | | MC: I think I am more theoretical than practical. |
| emphasis on flora, rather than the emphasis on | | | | On a personal level, I love jewelry. On a |
| fauna that their predecessors maintained. | | | | professional level, my experience in jewelry began |
| Nowadays the art of jewelry design is opening up | | | | with a job promoting Peruvian jewelry abroad. For |
| further in Peru, becoming a more attractive field | | | | that, I visited many small and well-known |
| for new jewelers who prefer modern jewelry -- | | | | workshops to learn about all aspects of jewelry |
| inspired by our roots, but featuring more abstract | | | | production. I was involved with metal industry |
| shapes and ideas. This means that the Peruvian | | | | deals as well. I participated in expert meetings at |
| artist may still express himself in a way that is | | | | the National Industries Society and Mining Society. |
| inspired by our culture, but merged again with | | | | Personally, I noticed a lack of finishing expertise, |
| new beginnings. | | | | especially in some of the smaller workshops, so I |
| CG: Can you describe more of the details one can | | | | began to organize attendance for technical |
| expect to enjoy in Pre-Inca, Inca, and other | | | | courses, and began designing educational |
| Peruvian handcrafted jewelry designs? | | | | workshops for small and new jewelers. I learned |
| MC: Pre-Inca and Inca jewelry share similarities, | | | | much over the years, but really never put this |
| because the Inca Empire resulted from the | | | | knowledge into practice as an artist myself. I |
| conquest of various Pre-Inca cultures. Inca | | | | have enjoyed participating in international jewelry |
| jewelry expresses the Inca's beliefs and | | | | fairs, including, for example, Iberjoya in Madrid, |
| cosmology. You will find images of felines, people, | | | | and I have attended international jewelry |
| or birds decorated with snakes or sunbeams | | | | symposiums promoted by various international |
| which express royalty, power and loyalty. Some | | | | cooperation programs. |
| of our Pre-Inca cultures used a simple, attractive | | | | I have participated in an important local silver |
| style to express their beliefs, most of those are | | | | contest called Plata del Peru, sponsored by |
| still commonly represented in artistry today, and | | | | Patronato de la Plata, as an invited judge. My |
| not only in jewelry. Colonial style jewelry is | | | | years with Novica have broadened my |
| considered an elegant style. A Colonial jewel | | | | experience still further in many ways. Meanwhile, |
| design, or a Modern jewelry design inspired by | | | | the market has enjoyed great growth, and I now |
| colonial times, gives you the sense of seeing | | | | feel myself closer to the market at Novica. New |
| something designed for the Queen. Although we | | | | jewelry materials and concepts are always |
| do not use diamonds, for example, you cannot | | | | wandering around the world, so I keep learning |
| confuse this style with a bijouterie -- you will feel | | | | about what's new. |
| it as a jewel. Colonial jewelry and Inca-style | | | | I enjoy visiting the Mining Institute, where one can |
| jewelry are typically stunning handmade works of | | | | learn much about local gemstones. And I have |
| art, perfect for collectors. | | | | enjoyed taking some handmade jewelry classes |
| CG: What gemstones and metals are mined in | | | | to become more practically involved with our |
| Peru, and commonly found in handcrafted | | | | artists. Every so often I visit jewelry suppliers to |
| Peruvian jewelry? What about the quality level of | | | | see what is new, and to be updated about prices. |
| those same Peruvian materials? | | | | I must stay up-to-date on all prices so that I can |
| MC: Nice question, I love it. Do you know why? | | | | better assist artists, and understand their cost |
| The Silver Institute has named Peru as the first | | | | needs. It is a complex and fascinating profession! |