Beads and jewels


Pearls overview

Pearls are formed by a few species ofthe edges of the shell, a piece of mantle
mollusks (oysters, clams, mussels) and even atissue is placed in each notch and the mussel
couple of snails. It starts when an irritantis returned to the lake. The mantle tissue
gets into the mollusk. If the irritant orforms a 'pearl sac' and the resulting pearl
parasite cannot be ejected it is slowlyis harvested in about 3 years. Each mussel
surrounded by a substance called nacreproduces many pearls. The mussel can also be
(pronounced NAY-ker). The nacre is producedharvested  a second time 2 or 3 years later.
by the mantle tissue which produces two
substances a protein and aragonite a sixEach species of oyster or mussel will create
sided flat crystal. Together these are calleda characteristic form of pearl and the
nacre. It coats the inside of the shell andquality of the pearls depends on a variety of
any other foreign object in the shell. Thefactors, most important of these are the
nacre accumulates in layers and builds upcleanliness  of the water and its temperature
over time. This is how the foreign object
becomes  a  pearl.Pearls have been found in the Red Sea and the
Gulf of Hormuz (now the Persian Gulf) for the
That is the readers digest version of pearllast 6,000 years. These two bodies of water
creation. Actually its a lot more complex.lie on either side of Arabia and have
Sometimes the foreign object is a livingprovided pearls to both Europe and Asia.
parasite that kills the oyster before it canOther ancient sources of pearls are the gulf
be ejected. Other times the object may attachof Mannar between the Island of Sri Lanka and
to the inside of the shell and nacreIndia, the warm waters of southeast Asia, and
formation cements it to the shell creating amost of Polynesia. Pearls were sought after
'blister or button pearl. Most mollusks willby rich and powerful people throughout the
produce a concretion that does not containFar East. Arabia was a major source of small
nacre and that has no gem value, they arebaroque (uneven or oddly shaped) pearls, most
commonly  dark  brown  or  purplish.of which were traded to Europe or India, but
Pearls were not generally popular on the
All in all the creation of a fine naturalArabian  peninsula.
pearl is extremely rare. Only 1 in 10,000
oysters will produce a pearl. Most naturalOne pearl necklace found in China comes from
pearls are referred to as seed pearls due toa royal tomb and dates to 608 A.D. This is a
their small size and irregular appearance.rare find. Most of the pearl jewelry we know
Truly fine large pearls are remarkably rare.of from this period comes from royal
They command enormous prices and were worth aportraits and very few of these have
hundred times their weight in rubies orsurvived. Pearls were most popular from
diamonds before the advent of culturedthe17th century to the end of the 19th
pearls.century. The Manchu dynasty was especially
fond of pearls and believed the finest ones
The Chinese knew that pearls could be made bycame from the fresh water mussels of
the 1300s but did not expand on this forManchuria, their ancestral homeland. One
commerce, rather they made the occasionalportrait shows a Manchu lady wearing an
pearl buddha. A small limestone carving of aelaborate headdress with strands of pearls
buddha would be placed in an oyster andhanging down from the sides. The communist
allowed to grow for several years. The oysterrevolution at the beginning of the 20th
would then be harvested and the pearl buddhacentury made jewelry unfashionable in China,
collected  as  a  miracle.but that is changing since the death of Mao
and  the  easing  of  communist  rule.
Cultured pearls were first developed for
commercial purposes in Japan about 100 yearsThe story is a little different in India
ago by the Mikimoto Company. Kokichi Mikimotowhere pearls appear in paintings in
spent many years developing the techniquesabundance. These paintings, "Persian
beginning in 1893 and this becameMiniatures" are finely detailed and were used
commercially viable by 1905. By 1912 Europeanas official records of the participants at
Pearl sellers asked the courts in London andmany royal ceremonies. Each shows a small but
Paris to ban the sale of Japanese culturedvery accurate portrait (including clothing)
pearls, but scientist proved that theirof  each  person  at  a  particular ceremony.
formation is essentially identical to natural
pearls.These miniatures were most popular beginning
in the 1600s, during the Mogul period, and
Cultured pearls are given a helping hand. Themany pieces of jewelry from this period
oysters are raised on farms and after 5 orsurvive in private collections and in
six years of growth they are removed frommuseums. One of the most popular styles of
their beds. Skilled workers, mostly women,pearl jewelry was long strands of matched
carefully open each oyster and insert apearls  with  ruby  and  emerald  accents.
mother of pearl bead and a piece of mantle
tissue into the shell. With luck one oysterPearls and precious stones were worn by both
in three will survive the procedure andmen and women in the Mogul Court. In fact
produce a cultured pearl. Nacre accumulatesIndia was both a source and a trading center
quite slowly in Japanese waters and it takesfor pearls and gems. The lavish use of pearls
about 3 years for a millimeters worth ofwas both an ornament and a statement of
nacre to accumulate and form a culturedpower. Pearls and colored stones were worn as
pearl. Some pearl farms in the southernjewelry, sewn onto clothing, mounted into
waters from Burma to Australia can boast of asword belts and armor, and added to to nearly
faster nacre buildup, in some cases up to 3every decorative item you could imagine.
millimeters  a  year.Indians considered the pearl to represent the
moon as a symbol of perfection. The only gem
Freshwater pearls are produced by yet anothermore popular was the diamond. While the Mogul
method. Several species of mussels in Lakecourt no longer exists, pearls continue to be
Biwa in Japan are farm raised. After a yearspopular throughout India and southeast Asia.
growth they are notched in many places along



1 A B C D E 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117