| The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) | | | | mussel. The result is the beautiful square and coin |
| provides a set of seven value factors for grading | | | | pearls that are so popular. |
| pearls. These are: Size, Color, Shape, Luster, | | | | Love those Petal pearls? They are actually the |
| Nacre Quality, Surface Quality, and Matching | | | | result of a mussel that has already grown a |
| (within a strand or set). Traditionally, pearl farmers | | | | square or coin pearl and is allowed to form a pearl |
| strived to create the perfectly round pearl. | | | | without a seed in the empty hole. When the pearl |
| Today, Fashion gives us new, unique designs | | | | is removed from the mussel, it leaves an empty |
| featuring pearls of interesting shapes that are far | | | | sac. If the mussel was not injured when the pearl |
| from round. This article talks about the Pearl | | | | was taken from it, the mussel can be returned to |
| Shape value factor, specifically, the shapes that | | | | the water where it will continue excrete nacre |
| are not created by Nature. | | | | and form another freeform pearl in the empty |
| In the beginning, without going into too much | | | | pearl sac. Petal pearls cost more than simpler |
| detail, three Japanese gentlemen -- Mikimoto, Mise | | | | pearls because the mussel must survive twice as |
| and Nishikawa -- developed commercial culture | | | | long and thus require higher risk for the pearl |
| pearl farming as we know it today. This involved | | | | farmer. |
| placing a round "seed" made from the shell of a | | | | Almost any shape you can imagine can be |
| mullusk shell into the Akoya oyster, thus | | | | created using tiles, wafers or sticks of paraffin |
| stimulating it to make it to grow nacre (pearl skin) | | | | and/or mussel shell. Crosses, tiles and coins have |
| around that seed. Although overly simplified, this is | | | | all been shaped using these techniques. If you are |
| the basic process they developed in the early | | | | not sure if the pearls are formed by Nature or by |
| 1900s that is followed still today. | | | | human intervention, be sure to ask. Your retailer |
| Freshwater pearls are cultured a little differently. | | | | should be knowledgeable enough to provide this |
| They do not require that seed bead. They begin | | | | information, especially if this is a high-dollar item. |
| with just a slip of mantel tissue from a donor | | | | Your retailer should be equally willing to disclose |
| mussel(mussels grow in freshwater; oysters in | | | | this information.Beth Schmitz, CEO Avant Pearl, |
| saltwater). This offers new possibilities for shaping | | | | GIA Pearls GraduateA jewelry designer, |
| the new pearl. First, with just a piece of mantel | | | | businesswoman and self-proclaimed diva, Ms. |
| tissue, Chinese pearl farmers spent many years | | | | Schmitz spent more than 20 years in business. |
| experimenting to get the gorgeous round pearls | | | | Her creative side took control in 2001 when she |
| on the market today. Although no one really | | | | chose to dedicate her life to the jewelry industry |
| knows how they do it (trade secrets abound), I | | | | and the smart women like her who appreciate |
| have heard that placing a perfectly square piece | | | | gorgeous baubles and have the means to pay for |
| of mantel tissue as the "seed" seems to produce | | | | them.Beth's online boutique features high-end pearl |
| rounder pearls. | | | | jewelry from leading designers, limited-edition |
| Freshwater pearls also come in an array of | | | | manufacturers and skilled craftsmen throughout |
| interesting shapes. Some of these are formed | | | | the world. She holds a degree from Harvard |
| using seeds just like Akoyas, Tahitians and South | | | | University and an MBA from the University of |
| Seas. Instead of using the round seed bead, a | | | | Texas at Austin. |
| square tile or a round wafer is slipped into the | | | | |