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Article #125: The Magic of Diamonds: Jewelry Article 12; How to Diamond Buying Guide

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Celebrating a Special Occasion with make will look lifeless, it will lack the
Jewelry sparkle and personality we identify with
Nothing more personal than our response diamond. In addition, stones are often
to color. Color is the new language of cut to make them appear larger. But a
passion, and nothing captures it better stone that looks much larger than another
than distinctively styled jewelry. of the same weight will not be as
Leave her speechless with our brilliant beautiful as a smaller stone that is
colorless and fancy colored diamond or properly cut.
bold brilliant gemstone jewelry styles. Differences in cutting can also affect
Jewelry and Gems; The Buying Guide the durability of a diamond. Some cutting
Diamonds faults weaken the ston and make it more
The magic of diamonds. susceptible to breaking or chipping.
The diamond has been one of the most Fine cutting requires skill and
coveted gems in history. Uncut diamond experience, and takes more time. For all
adorned the suits of armor of the great these reasons, a well cut diamond
knights; cut diamonds have adorned the commands a premium and will cost much
crowns of kings and queens throughout the more than one that is cut poorly.
ages. Today the diamond is There are many popular shapes for
internationally recognized as a symbol of diamonds. Each shape affects the overall
love and betrothal and is the recipient look of the stone, but if the stone is
of increasing interest as a source for cut well, beauty and value endure no
investment. matter which shape you choose.
The diamond has been credited with many - Round brilliant cut (The most popular
magical powers, superior strength, shape)
bravery and courage. At one time it was A modern round brilliant cut diamond has
considered the emblem of fearlessness and 58 facets, 33 on the top, 24 on the
invincibility; the mere possession of a bottom, plus the culet (the "point" at
diamond would endow the wearer with the bottom, which normally is another
superior strength, bravery, and courage. tiny facet). Round brilliant cut stones
It was also believed that a diamond could that are small in are referred to as
drive away the devil and all spirits of "full cut" to distinguish them from
the night. "single cut" stones that have only 17
During the 1500s diamonds were looked facets, or "Swiss cut" with only 33
upon as talismans that could enhance the facets. Older pieces of jewelry, or
love of a husband for his wife. In the inexpensive pieces containing numerous
Talmud a gem that, from its description, often contain these cuts instead of full
was probably a diamond was worn by the cut stones. They have less brilliance and
high priest and served to prove innocence liveliness than full cuts, but with fewer
or guilt. If an accused person were facets are easier and less expensive to
guilty, the stone grew dim; if innocent, cut. Jewelry containing single or Swiss
it shone more brilliantly than ever. cut stones should sell for less than
The Hindus classed diamonds according to jewelry with full cuts.
four castes. The Brahmin diamond When a round brilliant cut diamond is cut
(colorless) gave power, friends, riches, well, its shape displays the most
and good luck; the Kshatriya (brown liveliness because it enables the most
champagne) prevented old age; Vaisya (the light to be reflected back up through the
color of a "kodali flower") brought top. This means that round brilliant cut
success; and the sudra (a diamond with diamonds will have greater brilliance,
sheen of a polished blade, probably gray overall, than other shapes. However,
or black) brought all types of good shape is a personal choice, and other
fortune. Red and yellow diamonds were shapes can also be very beautiful. New
exclusively royal gems, for kings alone. shapes also appear, some of which compare
Diamonds have been associated with almost very favorably to round stones for
everything from producing sleepwalking to overall attractiveness.
producing invincibility and spiritual As a rule of thumb, if the top portion
ecstasy. Even sexual prowess has been (crown) appears to be roughly 1/3 of the
strongly attributed to the diamond. There pavilion depth (distance from girdle to
is a catch, however, to all the mythical culet), the proportioning is probably
powers associated with this remarkable acceptable.
gem. One must find the diamond Types of diamond proportioning
"naturally" in order to experience its The proportioning, especially the height
magic, for it loses its powers if of the crown in relation to the depth of
acquired by purchase. However, when the pavilion, and the width of the table
offered as a pledge of love or facet in relation to the width of the
friendship, its potency may return, stone, is what determines how much
another good reason for its presence in brilliance and fire the stone will have.
the engagement ring! Several formulas for correct
- What is Diamond? proportioning have been developed for
Chemically speaking, a diamond is the round diamonds. Stones that adhere to
simplest of all gemstones. It is plain these very precise formulas are
crystallized carbon, the same substance, considered to have an "ideal" make an
chemically, as the soot left on the will cost more than other diamonds
inside of a glass globe after the burning because of the extra time and skill
of candle, or the substance used in lead required to cut them, and because more
pencils. diamond "rough" is lost in cutting.
The diamond differs from these in its There are several slightly differing
crystal form, which accounts for the formulas for cutting an "ideal" stone,
desirable properties that have made it so but each results in an exceptionally
highly prized, its hardness, which gives beautiful stone. Generally speaking,
it unsurpassed wearability, its diamonds that are cut with smaller tables
brilliance, and fire. Nonetheless, while exhibit more fire; those with larger
diamond is the hardest natural substance tables exhibit more brilliance. The
known, it can be chipped or broken if hit latter seems to be more in fashion today.
hard from certain angles; and if the But, as common sense may tell you, both
girdle, the edge of the diamond that can't excel in the same stone. A larger
forms the perimeter, has been cut too table can create greater brilliance but
thin, the girdle can chip with even a will cause some reduction in fire; a
modest blow. smaller table area can increase fire but
White (or more correctly, colorless) may reduce brilliance. The ideal would be
diamonds are the most popular, but a compromise that would allow the
diamond occurs in every color in the greatest brilliance and fire
rainbow. When color is prominent the gem simultaneously. No one has come to
is called a fancy or master fancy agreement, however, on what the
diamond. percentages should be, since some people
- How to determine the value of a prefer fire to brilliance, and vice
diamond, the four Cs? versa. This is why there are several
The factors used to determine the quality different types of proportioning found in
and value of a diamond are referred to as diamonds, and best is usually a matter
the "four Cs." In terms of their effect personal preference.
on the value of a diamond, in order of When purchasing purchasing a round
importance, they listed as follows: diamond, ask how the make would be
1. Color (body color) graded: ideal, excellent, very good,
2. Clarity (degree of flawlessness) good, fair, or poor. A diamond with a
3. Cutting and proportions (often called "fair" or "poor" make should sell for
the make) less than a diamond with a "good" make. A
4. Carat weight diamond with a "very good," "excellent,"
- Finding the right combination. or "ideal" make will sell for more.
Keep in mind, however, that the key to Your eye will be responsible for making
being happy with your diamond purchase is the final determination. In general, when
understanding how each of these four Cs you look at a diamond that has a lot of
affects beauty and durability, cost, and brilliance and fire, the cutting and
the stone as a whole. It may sound proportioning probably are acceptable. A
complicated at first, but when you begin stone that appears lifeless and seems to
looking at stones you'll see it really be "dead" or dark at the center probably
isn't. With a little experience, you'll suffers from poor cutting and
decide which Cs are most important to proportioning. The more time you take to
you, and know to look for to get the look at and compare diamonds of different
right combination, one that meets your qualities and prices, the better trained
emotional and financial needs. your eye will become to detect
The importance of Cut and Proportion. differences in brilliance and fire,
It's important to distinguish exactly lifelessness and dullness.
what "cut" means when referring to Diamonds exhibit somewhat different
diamonds and other stones. Cut does not "personalities" depending upon the make.
means shape. The selection of shape is a An "ideal" make will exhibit one
matter of individual preference. No personality, while another diamond with
matter which shape is selected, its different proportioning will exhibit
cutting must be evaluated. differences in different personality. A diamond cut with
cutting can affect a diamond's beauty, an ideal make will cost more, but that
durability, and cost, the latter by as doesn't mean everyone will prefer stones
much as 50%, or more. cut to ideal proportions. A diamond does
The cutting and proportioning of a not have to be cut to "ideal" proportions
diamond, the stone's "make", is to show strong fire and brilliance, to be
especially important because of its beautiful or desirable. Many prefer a
effect on the fire (the lovely rainbow diamond with a wider table than is found
colors that flash from within) and in an "ideal."
brilliance (the liveliness, the sparkle) No matter what the proportions are,
exhibited by the stone. Proper cutting before making a final decision on a
and proportioning release the full beauty particular stone, ask yourself whether or
that sets diamond apart from all other not you think it is beautiful. If you
gems. A stone with an excellent make will like it, don't allow yourself to be
be exciting, while a stone with a poor overly influenced by formulas.






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